Ferragamo 创始人 Salvatore 的作品档案中有近 15,000 款鞋款设计。而且,Maximilian Davis说:“它们都是有原因的,而且都包含一个故事。”
他关注的这个季节的故事与舞蹈有关。情绪板上印有 1950 年萨尔瓦多为美国舞蹈家和编舞家Katharine Dunham设计的合身的鞋子照片,她的艺术受到她在加勒比海的民族志研究的影响:“我觉得很多事情都与我有联系,”Davis谈到Dunham时说。除此之外,还有 Nureyev 的照片(他显然穿着 Ferragamo 鞋跳舞)和 Hans van Manen 的一些梅普尔索普式芭蕾舞照片。最后的转折是参考了艺术家Piero Manzoni的画布:Davis说他被曼佐尼表面的触感和纹理所吸引。
宽松的风衣搭配下屁股腰带、野战夹克和分段裙,采用金属尖刺尼龙剪裁而成,给人一种松脆的曼佐尼感觉,并散发出 Nureyev 如此强烈地散发出的 80 年代下班芭蕾舞猛男氛围——这在一件很棒的臀部超大号黑色皮革豌豆大衣中得到了进一步传递。紧身裤、紧身衣和缎带尖头高跟鞋搭配双层包裹上衣,与经典的芭蕾舞开衫相呼应。这些传达了 Davis 的设计跃升到丝绸混合块色运动装造型的一部分,其中包括双层包裹夹克和丝绸针织连衣裙,罗纹下摆通过打结和垂坠形成非正统的形状。
完整的降落伞连衣裙在穿着者身上翻滚,掩盖了身体形态,同时也被贴身的针织连衣裙映射和强调,这些针织连衣裙镶嵌有条纹有机形状,在下面作为流苏循环并回到下摆。包袋、短裤和不对称定义的合身连衣裙和水洗牛仔裙子的边缘饰有强调的簇绒流苏喷雾。外套和皮革 Gancini 网布裙子强化了品牌代码。
—LUKE LEITCH
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