In 2016, at the Silk Road Lute Symposium held at the Shanghai Conservatory of Music, Xie Wanzhang, a doctoral student in ethnomusicology at the China Conservatory of Music, met Sanubar Tursun.
2016年，在上海音乐学院举办的丝绸之路鲁特琴研讨会上，正在中国音乐学院读音乐人类学博士的谢万章结识了赛努拜尔·吐尔逊。
Later, they flew back to Urumqi on the same flight. During the five hours on the plane, Xie Wanzhang shared stories with Sanubar Tursun about his ethnomusicological fieldwork in Kaqun Township in Shache County and Kilasifu Township in Akto County.
后来，他们乘同一班飞机回乌鲁木齐，飞机上的五个小时，谢万章和赛努拜尔·吐尔逊讲述起自己在莎车县喀群乡、阿克陶县库斯拉甫乡等地做音乐人类学田野调查时发生的故事。
Born in Yili, Xinjiang, Sanubar Tursun learned folk songs, Muqam, and Dutar from a young age. Despite being a famous Uyghur folk singer, stories about musicians from southern Xinjiang from an anthropological perspective are rarely heard.
出生于新疆伊犁的赛努拜尔·吐尔逊从小就学习民歌、木卡姆、都塔尔，尽管她是著名的维吾尔族民族歌手之一，但也鲜少能听到在人类学这样的学术视角下关于新疆南部民间的音乐艺人的故事。
On the ethnomusicological fields of Xinjiang, Xie Wanzhang, of Han nationality, also learns minority musical instruments.Xie Wanzhang and Sanubar Tursun hit it off straight away, they discuss Muqam and Dutar, agreeing on plans for future collaborations.
在新疆的音乐人类学田野上，汉族出身的谢万章也在学习新疆少数民族乐器。两人一见如故，关于木卡姆，关于都塔尔，他们聊得投机，并约定好下次合作的计划。
Since then, the fate of music has tightly bound Xie Wanzhang and Sanubar together.
从那之后，音乐的缘分将谢万章和赛努拜尔紧紧联系到了一起。
Music in the Yarkant River
叶尔羌河流域的音乐
In the region of mid-stream of Yarkant river live the Makit Dolan people. In a training course of the China National Arts Funding Program hosted by Kashi University in summer, 2018, Xie Wanzhang, as a student, took this formation as his field research about Dolan Muqam and spent 60 days living with more than 20 inheritors of the Makit Dolan Muqam.
在叶尔羌河中游，生活着麦盖提刀郎人。2018年夏天，在喀什大学主持的国家艺术基金项目“刀郎木卡姆人才培养”培训班里，作为学员的谢万章，将这次培训作为了自己研究刀郎木卡姆的田野调查活动，与二十余位麦盖提刀郎木卡姆传承人一起生活了六十天。
During those two months, he spent his morning in lectures of experts and his afternoon learning skills of Muqam from Dolan folk artist including Yusan Yaya, Hasan Nur, Ahat, Tursun, Patigul, etc. He was also able to take part in the performance when he learnt well.
那两个月，谢万章早上听专家讲座，下午就跟着玉山·亚亚大叔、艾山·努尔大叔、艾海提大叔、图尔荪老师、帕提古丽老师等刀郎民间艺术家学习木卡姆，他学得不错，有时候还可以跟他们一块出去演出。
Xie has been spending about six to seven years in the the studies of folk art in the region of Yarkant River. Before studying Dolan Muqam, he had already spent more time in Kilasifu, Akto County.
谢万章在叶尔羌河流域研究民间音乐已经有六、七年了，在学习刀郎木卡姆之前，他在阿克陶县库斯拉甫乡待过更久的时间。
In 2015, Xie went back to his hometown Xinjiang, trying to find a topic for his PhD dissertation. Starting form Urumqi and after having arrived in Yanqi, he followed the southeastern edge of the Tarim Basin and crossed almost half of the Xinjiang Province to come to Kashgar.
2015年，谢万章回到家乡新疆，寻找自己的博士论文选题。从乌鲁木齐出发，到焉耆后，顺着塔里木盆地的东南边缘，穿越大半个新疆来到喀什。
Further south, the Yarkant River winds its way down from the Karakorum Mountains, leaving behind tiny oases of human habitation scattered throughout the mountain valleys. In Kashgar, Akto and other areas, he frequently could frequently hear a strange yet nice name: Kilasifu.
若再往南去，叶尔羌河从喀喇昆仑山区蜿蜒而下，在山间谷地，留下了一块块人类居住的微小绿洲，散布在整个叶尔羌河流域。在喀什、阿克陶等地，他频繁地听到一个陌生又好听的名字——库斯拉甫。
Seen from the map, Kilasifu, nourished by the waters of the Yarkant River, has reached the southwestern edge of areas inhabited by the Uyghur people, located at the throat of where one can have access to the Tashkurgan from Shache and connected to the Pamir Plateau that borders the Karakoram.
从地图上看，被叶尔羌河水滋养的库斯拉甫乡已经到了维吾尔族聚居的西南边缘，处于从莎车进出塔什库尔干的咽喉部位，连接着与喀喇昆仑接壤的帕米尔高原。
Kilasifu used to be an important post on the Silk Road in ancient times, where many peoples riding donkeys from Central Asia, ancient Persians and Turkish traders as well as Tajiks and Kirghiz living in the borderlands of the Pamirs gathered and dwelled, and the Uyghur culture of Kilasifu was thus able to experience fusion with the cultures of other ethnic groups in the course of long-term exchanges.
古时候，库斯拉甫曾是丝绸之路上的重要驿站，赶着毛驴的中亚诸多民族、古代波斯人、土耳其商人，还有在帕米尔边陲生活的塔吉克族、柯尔克孜族都在这里聚集，库斯拉甫的维吾尔族文化因而与其他民族文化在长期的交流中得到了融合。
On the morning of the day he left Kashgar, recalling the day before, Ibrahim from the town of Oytak kept telling him to go to Kilasifu to have a look. Xie Wanzhang decided to give it a try for his dissertation topic and went to Akto County to get on the only shuttle bus to Kilasifu.
离开喀什的那天早上，回想起前一天，在奥依塔克镇的依不拉音一直跟他说：“你去库斯拉甫看看吧。”谢万章决定为了论文选题赌一把，去阿克陶县坐上了唯一一班通往库斯拉甫的班车。
In 2008, due to the location of Xinjiang "San Xia" Al-Kahsh Water Conservancy Hub Project, Kilasifu Township was part of the reservoir's flooded area, and since then, Kilasifu has slowed down the construction of all other infrastructures, so the condition of the roads leading from here to the outside world is not optimistic.
2008年，由于新疆“三峡”阿尔塔什水利枢纽工程定址，库斯拉甫乡属于水库淹没区，从那时起，库斯拉甫放缓了所有其他基础设施建设，因此从这里通往外界的道路条件不容乐观。
After an eight-hour drive, Xie Wanzhang arrived at Kilasifu, standing on the high ground of Kusilafu Township, all that could be seen were the bare ridges of the mountains and the traditional stone houses scattered in the Yarkant River Valley, all as old as the movie pictures of the 1950s and 1960s.
经历八小时的车程，谢万章到了库斯拉甫，站在库斯拉甫乡的高地上，目能所及的是光秃秃的山脊,以及散落于叶尔羌河谷里传统的石头垒砌的房子，一切如上世纪五六十年代的电影画面般陈旧。
Introduced by Yusupjan, the head of the township's cultural station, Xie Wanzhang met several local folk artists from Kusilafu.
通过乡文化站长玉素甫江引荐，谢万章见到了几位库斯拉甫当地的民间艺人。
They are Nurmamat Mawlamat and Sulayman Tursun who play the eagle flute, Alim Tohti and Woxur Yakup who play the tambourine, and two younger inheritors Anwar and Yasen.
他们是吹鹰笛的努尔买买提·毛拉买提和苏来曼·吐尔逊，打手鼓的阿里木·托乎提和吾修尔·亚库甫，还有两个较年轻的传承人艾尼瓦尔和亚森。
Playing melodies on eagle flutes and beating rhythms on tambourines, they performed Kusilafu's unique Meshrep, a perfect blend of Uyghur and Tajik styles in their music.
他们用鹰笛吹奏旋律，手鼓击打节奏，表演了库斯拉甫独特的麦西来甫，在他们的音乐中，将维吾尔族与塔吉克族风格完美融合。
Yasen, forty-seven years old and up, was the most versatile of the several artists, knowing traditional folk songs as well as playing and singing electronica songs popular among young people. The eagle flute, however, Yasen had never been able to learn. Xie Wanzhang thought it was strange, and Yasen pointed his mouth at him, gesturing as he spoke, and he understood, "Because he is too stupid to learn."
亚森四十七岁上下，是几位艺人里最全能的一位，既懂得传统的民歌，又可以弹唱年轻人中流行的电子琴歌曲。但鹰笛，亚森却一直学不会。谢万章觉得奇怪，亚森对他指着自己的嘴巴，边说边比划，他听懂了，“因为自己太笨了，学不会。”
Having studied the music of Xinjiang's ethnicminorities for many years, Xie Wanzhang took this to heart. Yasen was smart enough to play almost any instrument he could get his hands on except the eagle flute. But the eagle flute originated from an ancient Tajik myth and is representative of Tajik ethnic instruments.
研究新疆少数民族音乐多年，谢万章把这事放在了心上。亚森很聪明，他会弹奏除了鹰笛之外几乎所有能够接触到的乐器。但鹰笛源自于塔吉克族古老的神话，是塔吉克民族乐器的代表。
In Xie Wanzhang's opinion,for Yasen, the eagle flute is actually due to the distress brought about by his cultural identification with his own people. The musical cultures of different ethnic groups intertwine with each other, which is reflected in the Kilasifu.
在谢万章看来，对于亚森来说，鹰笛实际上是由于他对本民族文化认同带来的困扰。不同民族的音乐文化相互交织，在库斯拉甫人身上得以体现。
When deciding on the title of his dissertation, Xie Wanzhang remembered Yasen's words, and "The Eagle Flute That Cannot Be Learned" became the main title of his doctoral dissertation.
在确定论文题目时，谢万章想起了亚森的话，“学不会的鹰笛”成了他博士论文的主标题。
He decided to go into Kusilafu to see the cultural memory of the ancient Silk Road post in the present day.
他决定走进库斯拉甫，去看看古丝绸之路驿站在如今的文化记忆。
The news of Kilasifu
库斯拉甫的新闻
In a village inhabited ethnic minorities, which located in the kunlun mountains, A Han Chinese, who is came from Beijing, And that was soon became the enormous news in the streets and alleys.
在昆仑山脉深处的少数民族聚居村落，来了一个从北京来的汉族人，很快成为库斯拉甫大街小巷的新闻。
Xie wan zhang didn't know how to speak Uyghur language,and it is so difficult for him to communicate directly with the local residents.
谢万章不懂维吾尔语，他很难跟当地的居民有直接的语言交流。
Except for a few folk artists who met him the first time,the others only knew that this person was from Beijing, and they were all curious about what he was doing here?
除了第一次见到的几位民间艺人外，大伙只知道这人是从北京来的，都在好奇他来干什么呢？
In order to understand deeply the life of the Kilasifu people,Xie Wan Zhang Xie walked around the streets all day long, observing the way of life of the local people, and the people also looked at him on the streets.
为了深入了解库斯拉甫人的生活，谢万章整日走在库斯拉甫的街头转悠，观察当地百姓的生活方式，而库斯拉甫人也在街边看着他。
One night, an elderly man with a disabled leg suddenly came to his room, walked straight to the computer and looked at it for a while, and then pointed to the recording pen on the table. Xie Wanzhang understood what the old man meant, and turned on the recording pen, put it in front of him. The old man spoke to the recording pen for half an hour, and then left.
一天晚上，一个腿有残疾的老人突然到他房间，径直走到电脑前望了一会儿，又指向桌上的录音笔。谢万章这才懂老汉的意思，过去把录音笔打开放在他跟前。老汉对着录音笔说了半个小时，说完就走了。
Later, when he returned to Urumqi, he remembered this recording, and find a colleague Listening to the voice, he knew that the old man ran to complain to him, "Xie Wanzhang was regarded as a reporter from Beijing."
后来回到乌鲁木齐，他想起了这段录音，找同事听后，才知道老汉跑去向他告状，“谢万章被大伙当成北京来的记者了”。
However, He found a new ways to communicate with the Kusilafu people. And knowing that Anwar,Yasen can drink a little wine occasionally,then Xie Wan Zhang bought wine and invited them to Meshrep. Soon after, He walked with this group of local folk artists.
不过他很快找到了与库斯拉甫居民交流的新方式。知道艾尼瓦尔和亚森偶尔会喝点小酒，谢万章就买来酒，邀请他们参加麦西来甫。不久后，他就跟这群民间艺人走在了一起。
Kilasifu's folk artists are important figures in the wedding, and several people often work together, A wedding, three days before and after, every night's Meshrep is an important part of the wedding.
库斯拉甫的民间艺人是婚礼的重要人物，几个人常在一块合作，一场婚礼，前后三天，每天晚上的麦西来甫，是婚礼的重要环节。
After mixing with folk artists, whenever there are wedding and other party activities, they will also call Xie Wanzhang together. Arriving at the wedding, he set up the cameras and then sat down to play drums, sing and dance with the old artists.
和民间艺人混熟络后，每当有婚礼等聚会活动，他们也会叫上谢万章一起。到达婚礼现场，他将摄像机摆好，然后坐下来和老艺人们一起打鼓、唱歌、跳舞。
Xie Wanzhang chose to record all this only in this purest way, as his anthropological method of investigation.
谢万章选择仅以这种最纯粹的方式记录下这一切，作为他人类学的调查方式。在场的所有人对于这样的记录方式不以为然。
Most of the time, Xie Wanzhang and their language exchange is still not much. After getting along for a long time, he was able to understand the general content of what folk artists talked about at the wine table.
在大多数时候，谢万章和他们之间的语言交流依旧不多。相处久了，他能够理解民间艺人们在酒桌上谈论的大概内容。
When playing to the climax, Xie Wanzhang can know from their expressions and actions that they have just told a joke, understand the general meaning, and laugh with them.
玩至尽兴的高潮，从他们的表情与动作，谢万章便能读懂他们刚刚在讲笑话，明白大概意思后，就跟着他们一块开怀大笑。
He drank with them when they drank, and learned to dance with them when they danced, got up and danced with the others, learned to beat the tambourine with the drummer... Everyone present is playing together.
他们在喝酒，他就跟着喝酒，他们要跳舞，他也跟着学会了跳舞，和大家一起起身跳，学着和鼓手一块敲打手鼓……在场的所有人都玩在了一块。
In Kilasifu, Xie Wanzhang lives in Yasen's home, Yasen always likes to give him a seat on the kang side not far from the door, he thought at first that Yasen let him sit there in order to change his shoes more convenient.
在库斯拉甫，谢万章就住在亚森的家中，亚森总爱把离门不远的炕边位子让给他，他起初以为亚森让他坐在那是为了换鞋方便些。
Until the Eid al-Adha Corban Festival, when Xie Wanzhang went with Yasen to pay New Year's greetings to the elders and neighbors, he found that the local custom is that women and elders are respected, and the position on the kang side is reserved for the most distinguished guests.
直到古尔邦节，谢万章跟着亚森一起去给长辈、邻居拜年的时候，他才发现，当地人的习俗是女性为尊、长者为尊，炕边的位置是留给最尊贵的客人的。
"That day I gave up my left seat to Yasen and sat next to a guy my own age, and everyone around me gave me the thumbs up and said, 'Now you're a real Kilasifu's.'"
“那天我主动把左边的位置让给了亚森，坐在了与自己年龄相仿的小伙子的身边，周围的人都冲我竖起大拇指，说‘现在你是真正的库斯拉甫人了’。”
The Friendship Born from Muqam
木卡姆延续出的交情
Starting from the quest for a thesis topic in 2016, every subsequent year Xie Wanzhang would spend time in Kilasifu, from one week to as long as six months.
从2016寻找毕业论文选题开始，之后的每一年，谢万章都会到库斯拉甫待上一段时间，短则一星期，长则半年。
In the summer of 2018, Xie Wanzhang attended Dolan Muqam training at KashiUniversity. In the meantime, people in Kilasifu were ready to move because of the construction of the Al-Kahsh Hydropower Station, so he took a break from his studies and went to Kilasifu for a final farewell.
2018年夏天，谢万章在喀什大学参加刀郎木卡姆的培训，库斯拉甫人也因为阿尔喀什水电站动工，准备全员搬迁了。他在学习的间隙前往库斯拉甫，准备做最后的告别。
Arriving in Kilasifu, he encountered a massive landslide caused by heavy rain, destroying roads and communication lines, leaving Xie Wanzhang trapped there for a week, without any connection with the outside world.
到库斯拉甫时，正巧赶上大雨导致的山体滑坡，将沿线的道路和通讯线缆全部冲垮，谢万章被困在库斯拉甫一个星期，与外界失去了联系。
This accident ,which worried Xie Wanzhang's relatives and friends in Urumqi and Beijing, let Kilasifu's relocation delayed two months. However, Xie Wanzhang did not have time to wait until the last moment of the move. After transportation was recovered, he returned to Kashi to continue training.
这场令谢万章远在乌鲁木齐、北京的亲友担心的意外，让库斯拉甫的搬迁延迟了两个月。不过谢万章没有时间等到搬迁的最后时刻，通讯恢复后，他又返回喀什继续参加培训。
In October 2018, the relocation was began , but Xie Wanzhang had already returned to Beijing to prepare for his graduation thesis. He could only bid farewell silently in his heart through theKilasifu's Moments.
2018 年 10 月，搬迁正式开始，而谢万章已经回到北京准备毕业论文，他只能通过库斯拉甫人的朋友圈，默默的在心里告别。
After moving to the new settlement, the Kilasifu people still remained their previous habits, but the original group of elderly people over 70 years old rarely participated in performances anymore. They could only wait to come out to play until prestigious local families held some events.
搬迁至新的安置点后，库斯拉甫人还是保留着以前的习惯，但是原有的那波年过70岁的老人已经很少再参加演出了，只有等到当地有威望的家族举办活动，他们才会出来演奏。
Xie Wanzhang’s investigation in Kusilafu has ended, but he still keep in touch with five folk artists. Now, his home in Urumqi also become a reception place for the Kusilafu people.
谢万章在库斯拉甫的调研也结束了，但他和五位民间艺人还保持着联系。如今，他在乌鲁木齐的家，也成了库斯拉甫人的接待处。
After Xie Wanzhang returned to work at Xinjiang Normal University in 2019, he joined the Dutar training of Sanubar and learned to play Dutar.
2019 年谢万章返回新疆师范大学工作后，加入了赛努拜尔的都塔尔培训班，学习弹奏都塔尔。
At the beginning of 2020, he stopped his field survey plan for the Epidemic. During the quarantine at home, Xie Wanzhang worked hard to practice Dutar, and later learned Muqam with his colleagues Abuduhabar and Kasimjan. In less than a year, he had practiced the five Muqam intermezzos to a basic level skilled.
2020年年初，因为疫情关系，他停下了田野调查的计划。在家隔离期间，谢万章努力练习都塔尔，后来跟同事阿不都合拜尔、哈斯木江一起学习木卡姆，不到一年的时间，谢万章已经将五首木卡姆间奏曲练得基本熟练。
Xie Wanzhang was born in Xinjiang. Although he is of Han ethnicity, he understands that Folk music is a part of people's lives in this land. It has nothing to do with occupation, ethnicity or region, but it can connect people together.
谢万章出生于新疆，虽然是汉族，但他明白，民族音乐是这片土地上人们生活的一部分，无关职业、无关民族、无关地域，却可以将人们联系到一起。
The field investigation happened to give Xie Wanzhang the great opportunity. He gained this group of intimate friends through his personal experience and sincere communication.
而田野调查正巧给了谢万章最合适的契机，他用亲身经历和真诚地交流，收获了这群挚友。
On February 14, 2021,Xie Wanzhang became the only Han performerin the first personal online concert held by Sanubar Tursun.
2021年2月14日，赛努拜尔·吐尔逊举办的第一场个人线上音乐会，谢万章成为这场音乐会中唯一的汉族演奏者。
Among the group of ethnic minority music performers, Xie Wanzhang felt as if he had returned to the moment that he attended the Meshrep (Danncing and Singing) in Kusilafu...
混在一群少数民族音乐演奏者间，谢万章感觉自己好像又回到了在库斯拉甫参加麦西来甫的时刻……
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